Showing posts with label Piedmont. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Piedmont. Show all posts

Monday, June 8, 2009

Pea festival

Sunday, May 31st, Casalborgone (TO).

Pea omelette, Voul-au-vent with pea sauce, Lasagne with peas, Gogu (pea-stuffed ravioli) with butter and sage, meat stew with peas.


I, Maddie and Mr. Bentley at Casalborgone
"Madam, has it been a long time since they make this festival?" I ask to the nice elderly woman that is having lunch with another lady friend right in front of us. "Uhm... it could be atleast thirty years" she says thoughtfully. It looks like in these little villages they all know each other, in fact, sitting next to us, an old man that wants to tell us his opinion at any rate intervenes: "No way! it is atleast fifty years!". After that they say something in Piemontese dialect that i cannot understand. Then the lady, facing me again, adds "Here, for this event, in the past they also used to sell a lot of peas. Then the Lancia factory [car industry nereby] came and the young people preferred a reliable job to the pea plantations. They sold up to two-three hundreds quintals [1 quintal = 100kg = 220lb], you know?" and the elderly man "Two-three hundred? They passed also one thousand quintals!". I love chatting with these people! "I heard there are also guided tours in the historical center town. Is it nice to see?". "It's wonderful" she says, "...it's worth to go to see, although, in only 20 minutes by foot you can see everything there is to see" - "20 minutes? - It will take at least one hour and a half if one wants to see really everything!"... and so on, tit for tat for the whole duration of the lunch.

The festival organization is really good, you pay before at the cashier, choosing from the displayed menu, they give you some tickets with the names of the dishes. When you sit at the table, the efficient volunteers for the local tourist board collect those tickets, and soon they come back soon with the chosen plates and drinks.

For the guided tours at the center town, there is an electric tourist train with three or four wagons ("in the past there were 20 wagons" the elderly man ensures). We preferred to go by car to avoid waiting for the next run. The center is actually very small but it looks carved in History. Every garden is full of colored flowers, every lane opens on a new landscape in the Monferrato hills.

At the typical products market we bought a couple of kilos of peas and some other products.

A lovely day passed in a place of peace and harmony.

website

Friday, May 29, 2009

La Formaggeria


Pagliettina
The word "tourism" recalls, besides a rest at the seaside or in the mountain, visits to museums.
Everywhere one happens to be one can find a museum about a particular subject, with the purpose to atone in a display of cultural engagement, every possible concession to laziness and enjoyment, almost it was about a guilt.
Naturally one cannot generalize, but sometimes really really think a museum is only an excuse to give oneself airs of intellectuality, while it's not really needed.
And maybe it's almost as if one justifies some museums, like for example the

Goat tomino
torture instruments in San Gimignano, just to mention one.
Torture instruments!
Shouldn't one be a kind of maniac to visit such a museum?
And what about some fetishism for the visitor of the museum of Umbrella at Gignese?

It obviously depends on the location of the holiday. I am not saying for sure that the Uffizi wouldn't deserve to be visited if one is in Florence, or the same for the Vatican Museums in Rome, or the Louvre in Paris. But to me, in general, museum is kind of boring, i have to admit in a guilty tone.
In general when we are in holiday we prefer to spend our energies in the methodical research of an authentic osteria, a genuine trattoria, an artisan cheese farm. And so, during our holiday in the Cuneo area some times ago (here the excursions), we ended up shopping at La Formaggeria, in Torre Pellice.
Visiting a shop like that one must conclude that, from the cultural point of view, it's not something really different from a museum. Philosophy of Bruna Magnano, that runs the shop, is to refuse commercial mass products and to offer instead niche quality, linked to the territory, trying to divulge the tradition, preserving it from the homologation imposed by the outside world.

Pecorino in must

Ricotta in hay
I believe that this is the right goal of a museum. The only difference is that a museum reminds me of a "moldy" smell, while La Formaggeria, instead, it welcomes the visitor with an attractive scent.

The counter exposes dozens of cheeses from that area, besides other products: fresh pasta, olive oils, various type of preserves... Among our purchases there are the cheese shown in these photos:
- Pagliettina, smooth cheese of mixed cow, goat and sheep milk, strong and acidulous taste
- Aged Goat Tomino, demi-strong, intense and resolute savour
- Pecorino aged in grape must, demi-strong, resolute notes of flavor coming from the must that colors the surface of the crust
- Ricotta aged in hay, demi-strong, salted, taste and smell of hay

La Formaggeria Di Magnano Bruna
Via Arnaud, 6, 10066 Torre Pellice (TO)

Friday, May 8, 2009

Monviso


Monviso seen from mount Bracco.
Last week we enjoyed a much deserved vacation. We went to an area that we never visited before: the Monviso (or mount Viso) area.
Unfortunately during the first three days the weather was ugly, very ugly. We had a lot of rain and down to the bottom of the valley they had also some flooding problems. Fortunately the next days were much better, even if we couldn't completely enjoy the excursions we had planned, both because the hiking paths were full of mud, and because the ugly weather caused little landslides that made it dangerous if not impossible to pass by on the paths. Moreover we were a little ingenuously unprepared to all of that snow (it can be for the microclimate of the lake if in our area, at the same altitude, snow is pretty much all melted).
Anyway we were able to do at least some hikes.

The first one is named "Tumpi la pisso", which in the local dialect i think it means something like "little waterfall in the pond". The path starts at the village Rore, in Varaita valley. Parking the car we missed the first deviation, although it was well indicated by a wooden sign, and we followed the white and red marks, on a skinny road, till we understood we were on the wrong one. Backtracking on our own steps we finally entered the right path, on the side of the brook, but here we couldn't go very far because one of the fords on the stream was impassable at all for the heavy rain of the past days.
Attention! This path is populated by "savarnots", troublemaking elfs of the Occitan mythology. Unfortunately we didn't have the chance to meet a real one: Maddie and Mr. Bentley had to be content to bark only towards one of the puppets that can be met along the path, settled by the local cultural association.
GPS track of the excursion "Tumpi la pisso":
in red the first part on the asphalted road, in green the right (correct) path, unfortunately cut short. A: parking lot.
Round trip on the first part:
  • Time: 1:13
  • Distance: 4.92km [3.06mi]
  • Difference of level: 195m [640'] (max amplitude 266m [873'])
  • Altitude: 896m [2940'] to 1103m [3679']

  • Round trip on the second part:
  • Time: 0:40
  • Distance: 2.87km [1.78mi]
  • Difference of level: 98m [322'] (max amplitude 255m [837'])
  • Altitude: 896m [2940'] to 994m [3261']

  • Another nice excursion was the one on mount Bracco. Parked the car on the road next to a convent and an inn, we started to walk entering the woods. Often the water flowed on the path itself making it difficult to walk because of the mud. Every now and then there were some buildings made out of stones that had been used for agricultural purposes. Fortunately we were next to one of them when all of the sudden we were surprised by a hailstorm, and we could use it as a shelter. Nothing terrible, but concerned that the situation could become worse we preferred to go back. Needless to say that the dogs were excited for the unusual weather conditions.
    The entire tour of mount Bracco doesn't look very difficult, if the weather is reasonable. It is anyway kind of long: it asks several hours hiking.
    GPS track of the first part of the mount Bracco tour: A: inn and convent; B: ruin of the building where we repaired from the hail.
    Outward:
  • Time: 1:15
  • Distance: 4.37km [2.72mi]
  • Difference of level: 67m [220'] (245m [804'] uphill and 168m [551'] downhill)
  • Altitude: 871m [2858'] to 1005m [3297']


  • Backward (on the same path):
  • Time: 0:59

  • The last excursion of this holiday was the one at Torrette towards Tenou. We parked the car on the side of a secondary road, right where there is the start point of the path.

    Roe deers grazing
    The beginning is an enough wide white road. The path then goes into the forest, always uphill, goes next to some agricultural house and a little waterfall of a torrent affluent to Varaita river. It opens then in a meadow at the end of which it is impossible to keep walking because of a snow avalanche.
    To tell the truth we had been warned, in the beginning of the hike, by a really gentle old man who we asked for directions. After warning us to use caution, he signaled us a detour from the main path, right next to a votive small chapel in the beginning of the meadow, that would have allowed us to pass the interruption.
    Anyway the sight of some roe deer grazing was enough reward for the effort of the climb, and so, after a stop to eat a slice of pizza and a sip of water, we decided to go back to the bottom of the valley, giving back the "landlords" their peace. Unfortunately, infact, we were not able to pass by unseen, despite our attempts not to make too much noise and to convince the dogs that we were already settled for dinner, and so there was no need to exercise their hunting instinct.
    GPS track of the excursion from Torrette: A: start point of the path; B: path blocked by the avalanche; C: votive chapel; D: lunch break point
    Outward (including the roe deers meadow tour):
  • Time: 1:57
  • Distance: 5.16km [3.21mi]
  • Difference of level: 351m [1152'] (515m [1690'] uphill and 219m [719'] downhill)
  • Altitude: 1116m [3661'] to 1495m [4905']
  • Backward:
  • Time: 1:17
  • Distance: 4.96km [3.08mi]
  • Difference of level: -296m [-971'] (164m [538'] uphill and 460m [1509'] downhill)
  • Altitude: 1495m [4905'] to 1116m [3661']
  • For sure we will go back in this area to try some other itineraries. We couldn't infact be able to try the one for which we were more stimulated, around the sources of the Po river, between Pian della Regina and Pian del Re.

    We lodged at Bed and Breakfast Il Bosco delle Terrecotte, at Barge, a restructured farmhouse in the peace atmosphere of the vineyards.

    Statistics of all the excursions during year 2009:
  • Total time: 11 hours and 44 minutes
  • Distance: 34.73km [21.58mi]
  • Difference of level: 2286m [7500']
  • Minimum altitude: 715m [2346']
  • Maximum altitude: 1550m [5085']

  • Friday, January 23, 2009

    Eros Buratti and the art of preservation of milk

    Upon exit from the shop and checking the receipt, R and i commented that the bill, after all, was less than what we expected, given the amount and quality of the purchases.
    "Over here, it's well-spent!" whispered a girl with Indian or Pakistani features just moments before, with the knowing tone of one who probably

    La Casera cheese shelf
    is a regular customer of La Casera herself. She was responding to my witty jest that emphasized worry for an expensive bill, humor that i thought appropriate to the friendly climate of the shop.

    Besides cheese and cured meats, the shop also has a little section for salt. While Eros, the storekeeper, passionately described to us the experience of tasting salt from various origins, i was thinking to the contradiction between the criteria of ecologic shopping and the purchase of a can of salt coming from Himalaya, rather than South Africa. But, come on! When will it ever happen again to be able to compare salt from Ibiza with the Hawaiian one? And so we added those two containers to our shopping bag.
    I am quite ignorant in this matter. Up until now, to me salt was just salt. NaCl. It's not that sodium chloride could ever have different organoleptic peculiarities if it comes from South American mines instead of Sicilian saltworks. Eros told me that the differences in taste are not given by the chemical substance itself, but by its impurities that every kind of salt has.

    Could be...
    Anyway i was already fully satisfied by the more interesting subject of cheese. "Taste this last, please" goes Eros, handing me a teaspoon with some fresh goat cheese.
    Delicious! so much that i asked him to add some of it to the basket. In the mean time R was involved by a woman (Eros' mother?) in buying an exquisite slice of Matera bread, displayed on a counter at the end of the shop.
    Fortunately these last two purchases were made at the end, after a list of items that were already carefully prepared before, selecting from the products listed on La Casera's website. It's really difficult, in fact, to choose real-time among hundreds of available cheeses (mainly from Piedmont, but also from other Italian regions, and some foreign ones).

    Cheese!
    The fresh goat cheese, together with a slice of pecorino siciliano ai pistacchi di Bronte (a token gift for the large purchase) were the worthy completion of our shopping list that included three cow milk cheeses (Toma del Maccagn, Raschera semistagionata, Tella Alto Adige), one sheep (Canestrato di Castel del Monte) and one goat (Ubriaco al Traminer). Any choice we inquired about was followed by a qualified comment from Eros.
    As a choice criterium we took into account the difficulty of being able to find those cheeses (a more famous pecorino di Pienza, for example, is easy to find also in the regular shopping centers).

    "You're in the right place" answered Eros, amused, showing up from the back-shop when, to break the ice, right in front of the display shelves, i said "Goodmorning, by chance do you have cheese over here?"
    A moment before, in front of the shop window, i dwelt upon the thought of the many surprising forms developed in the centuries of the need to preserve the milk nutritive properties.

    Indeed we were really in the right place.

    In the picture of the cheese plate, starting from the yellow one on the top, clockwise: Bagoss (cow milk, Lombardy), Ubriaco al Traminer (goat, Veneto), Canestrato di Castel del Monte - presidio SlowFood (sheep, Abruzzo), Pecorino siciliano DOP ai pistacchi di Bronte (sheep, Sicily), Toma del Maccagn - presidio SlowFood (cow, Piedmont), goat fresh cheese (Piedmont), Graukase (cow, Alto Adige), Vezzena - presidio SlowFood (cow, Trentino), Raschera semistagionata DOP (cow, Piedmont). In the center, Tella Alto Adige (cow).
    Bagoss was bought in a grocery shop, Graukase and Vezzena at the Christmas markets in Merano (Trentino Alto Adige), the others are all from Eros' shop.

    La Casera
    Piazza Ranzoni, 19
    28921 Verbania Intra
    http://www.formaggidieros.it